Wine Loft News Brief for Week of June 30th

Battle in Brunello

Have you heard the hype in Montalcino? Currently, the area is experiencing a bit of turmoil as Italy's financial police, the Guardia di Finanza, have seized several top Brunello producers' remaining stock of the prized juice from the 2003 vintage. Why? In order to be a Brunello, it must be 100% Sangiovese, and apparently there is question as to whether or not some producers cut corners and used something other! Some big names are in the lineup: Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de' Frecsobaldi), Pian delle Vigne (Antinori), and Castello Banfi and according to the police, all subsequent vintages still aging in the bottle or barrel are under seize as well.

The short of it: the government has suspicion that the folks the monitor Brunello production were perhaps sleeping on the job thus turning their head the other direction in regards to DOCG regulations. A three year investigation of the areas vineyards (from 2004-2007) uncovered 42 acres that did not conform to DOCG regulations (which in actuality is only 1% of the total acreage planted to Brunello vineyards).

Although the US TTB (new name for the US governing body over alcohol & tobacco trade) just recently "softened" their stance regarding the possibility of an embargo of the Brunellos, the danger still stands. With the new stance, the agency will accept certification from the Italian government that the wines comply with all the rules. Without the guarantee though, all Brunello imported after the said date (June 23) would be considered a "willful violation" resulting in a possible "suspension or revocation of the importer's permit."

Needless to say, the news coming out of the area in the coming months should be interesting! Stayed tuned to your local wine news source for updates on the fate of the Brunello di Montalcino...also look for the developing story based on reports of a different investigation into the illegal use of oak chips in a red wine produced in the town of San Gimignano!